Poncho Sleeves: Is That a Thing?

Poncho Sleeves?  Is that a thing?  Or is it an oxymoron?  Or am I just being a moron?  Hmm…  Oh well…  If it wasn’t a thing before, it is now.

This past fall as I was crocheting the Modern Granny Winter Poncho by Jeanne Steinhilber of the Crochet Crowd, I realized that it really needed to have sleeves.   The temperatures were beginning to drop, but not enough for a winter coat.  And while the cowl was keeping my neck toasty and warm, my arms were still chilled.  Rather than continuing to add round after round until the poncho became an unwieldy blanket, sleeves became the best option.Ppncho Sleeves

I chose Plymouth Yarn Hot Cakes in the Autumn Mix shade because they had just come into my local yarn store and I wanted to give them a go.  With it’s 75% acrylic / 25% wool blend the yarn is soft and crochets quite nicely while the 404 yards means I don’t have a ton of ends to weave in.

In theory you should be able to adapt the sleeves to fit any square shaped poncho pattern that is crocheted in the round.  You will just need to mark where the sleeves need to be and go from there.  Please see the end of this article for more tips for adapting to other poncho patterns.


–The same yarn and hook you used for the original poncho
–Stitch markers or yarn scraps


Please note that I did not do 48 rounds per the original pattern.  Instead I continued until I had 53 rounds and ended on an odd numbered round (3 dc sets).  There should be 68 sets of 3 dc’s from the front point to the back point on each side.

Lay the poncho on a flat surface with the points toward you and the ribbed cowl away from you.  Start working with one side of the poncho.  Count 21 sets of 3 dc’s starting from each point towards the shoulder.  Place a marker (a spare piece of yarn will do) to hold them together.  Repeat for second side.

You will be working in the round starting at the bottom of the poncho sleeve and going towards the shoulder and then to the bottom once more.

Round 1:  Join the front and back together using a slip stitch where you placed your marker.   Slip stitch each dc of the two 3 dc sets together. Then you will begin working in the round by doing a single crochet in each stitch until you come to the 24th set of 3 dc. Slip stitch to the first sc.

Round 2: Slip stitch the first and last sc together. Chain 3. Dc2tog, dc around until you come to the 3rd from the last sc of the round. Dc2tog the last 2 stitches. Slip stitch to the top of the first dc.

Round 3 through 6: Repeat Round 2

Round 7: Chain 3, dc around, slip to the top of the beginning chain 3

Round 8 through 16: Repeat Round 7.

Round 17: Chain 1, sc2tog around. Slip stitch to the first sc.

Do not fasten off!

Repeat above for second sleeve.


You will now be working perpendicular to the sleeves.

Optional cuff: To create a “ribbed” stitch look, work in the back loop of each sc.

To help you identify where to do the slp2tog, I suggest marking the sc on the sleeve where you just worked.

Chain 8

Row 1: Sc in the back hump of the 2nd chain from the hook and in the next 6 chains. (7 stitches)

To attach the cuff to the sleeve, slp2tog both the sc row you just finished (your marked stitch) and the next sc of the sleeve.

These are the 2 stitches to slp2tog

Slp2tog Stitch:  Insert hook into the stitch on the sleeve where you placed the stitch marker. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into the next sc on the sleeve. Yarn over and pull through. There should now be 3 loops on you hook. Pull the loop closest to the tip of your hook through the other 2 loops.

slip loops
Pull the left loop through the other 2 loops.

Row 2: Do not chain 1 as you might normally do to go to the next row. Sc back across. Make sure that there are 7 sc. Note that the stitch closest to the wrist is actually the top of the slp2tog. Turn your work.

7 stitches
These are the 7 stitches of the cuff.

Row 3: Chain 1 and sc in the next 7 stitches. The stitch closest to the wrist may be hard to identify so be careful.  Slp2tog both the current and next sc on the wrist. Turn your work.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have no more stitches left on the wrist.

Slp2tog the last sc and the first sc of the wrist. Pull the yarn through to fasten off; making sure that there is enough of a tail to sew the two sides together.

Sew the two ends of the cuff together using a whip stitch through both loops of the stitches and fasten off.

Measurements for other Poncho Patterns:

To do the pattern as originally written, skip the last round (#48) and use the following measurements:
Count 18 sets of dc’s from the point up towards the shoulder. The sleeve itself will not change so follow my instructions above.

For other ponchos:
Lay the poncho on a large, flat surface as though you were about to wear it with the front and back “points” closest to you. Make sure that the stitches on the front and back have the same count. On the first side measure 10″ from the top of the shoulder down and place a stitch marker to hold the front and the back together. Repeat for the other side. Now try on the poncho to make sure that the arm openings are comfortable for you. If it is, that’s great! if not, make adjustments accordingly though I do recommend that you go for a looser arm to accommodate the thickness of cool-weather clothing you might wear underneath.

Use the pattern above, making adjustments in stitch count as needed.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern as much as I have!

Special thanks to Christine F. for being my model for the day!

Have an excellent day!

Nose Bumps
Nose bumps from the Bun Sisters


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